The Doris Duke Theater and a Vampire Western
Today I Learned I Love Vampire Westerns
I didn’t know “vampire western” was a genre—let alone one I’d fall in love with—until a recent visit to the Honolulu Museum of Art’s Doris Duke Theater. As part of the Persian Screen Film Festival, I saw A Girl Walks Home Alone at Night (2014), an Iranian film directed by Ana Lily Amirpour. It completely redefined what I thought a vampire movie could be.
Described as a “vampire western,” the film is a genre-bending, Farsi-language story that unfolds in a ghostly Iranian town haunted by addiction, loneliness, and one very stylish vampire. Shot in moody black and white, the movie weaves together influences from graphic novels, David Lynch-style surrealism, and the eerie twang of Italian Western soundtracks. It’s artsy, eerie, and unapologetically cool.
Our chador-clad vampire heroine skateboards through deserted streets with her cloak billowing like bat wings, delivering justice to abusive men and creeping bad guys with a quiet, unnerving grace. She’s a silent avenger, and somehow also a total fashion icon. There are drag queens, moral ambiguity, tender moments, and bursts of violent revenge. And yes—I absolutely found myself shouting “GOOD FOR HER!” more than once.
It’s definitely not a film for everyone. It’s slow-paced, strange, and at times graphic—but for me, it was pure delight. I left the theater realizing that not only do I enjoy vampire westerns, I might be slightly obsessed.
I’ll be watching this one again. And now I’m on the hunt for more vampire westerns.
The Best Bite
I treated myself to lunch at the café, starting with a peach Bellini—light, bubbly, and just the right touch of indulgence. Curious to try more, I followed it with their house-made ginger lemonade, which struck a perfect balance: crisp, refreshing, and not overly sweet. A nice bonus? They’ll gladly provide a to-go cup so you can take your drink into the theater next door.
The café prides itself on crafting many of its sauces, dressings, and breads fresh in-house each day—a thoughtful touch that adds a layer of care to the menu. While the food itself is decent, what truly stands out is the atmosphere. A tranquil water feature provides a calming soundtrack, and the café's open-air layout catches a soft, natural breeze. It’s also a well-loved spot for neighborhood meetups, so making a reservation is highly recommended. The museum gift shop sits just across the breezeway, brimming with unique conversation pieces crafted by local artists. I never miss the chance to browse a museum gift shop!
The Momente
I wasn’t sure what to expect from the event, so I leaned into a vampy vibe when getting dressed: a Nirvana Heart-Shaped Box tee, lightweight black hiking pants, Belle Juri carved pearl skull jewelry, and the undeniable centerpiece—my Betsey Johnson skull boots. Those boots were a moment. I got stopped multiple times by people asking where I’d found them.
Not only did they turn heads, they were actually comfortable enough to wear all day—and, most importantly, they passed my personal travel shoe test: I could’ve walked several miles in them without a second thought.
Want your own pair of Betsey skull boots? (Not an affiliate link—we don’t gatekeep here): Get them here
Oh! Quick side note—did you catch Betsey Johnson on RuPaul’s Drag Race Season 17? She guest-judged Episode 9, Heavens to Betsey, and they mentioned she was the first fashion designer to feature trans models on her runway. Total queer icon energy. We LOVE Betsey Johnson!
